Fish pairs wonderfully with Japanese sake. From sashimi to stewed dishes, grilled to fried, various seafood dishes have been enjoyed with sake. Many ukiyo-e paintings capture this essence, but there’s one particularly unique piece I’d like to introduce.
The piece is Kitagawa Utamaro’s “Bakuren.” This is a painting of a series which depicts lessons intended for parents, essentially telling them, “Don’t let your child turn out like this.” “Bakuren” translates to being a brazen hussy.
The Scene of Indulgence in “Bakuren”
In the artwork, we see a woman downing sake from a Giyaman, a type of glass cup, her kimono disheveled, her expression one of ecstasy.
She holds what appears to be a crab, a delicacy in Edo at the time, accessible to the everyday person. The painting’s colors vividly depict the well-cooked, reddish appearance of the crab. Not only the flesh but also the miso housed within the shell must have complemented the sake beautifully.
A Gourmet Pairing: Edo’s Delightful Marine Food and Kamigata’s Fine Sake
Interestingly, the sake depicted was not brewed in Edo but was a high-quality product from the Kamigata region, referred to as “Kudari-sake”. This type of sake, particularly from areas around modern-day Osaka and Hyogo (notably Itami and Nada), was transported to Edo via Taru-kaisen(barrel ships). Annually, over a million barrels were shipped.
A playful touch is added to the painting: if one looks closely at the woman’s kimono, marks of Kudari-sake brands can be found. Try to spot the breweries if you have time – the crest of Kenbishi is hidden within the fabric. Other marks, like Otoko-yama and Nanatsu-musume, also make appearances.
It’s understandable that parents worry about their children’s futures, but one can’t help wishing they’d turn a blind eye just for the moments of savoring Edo’s exquisite seafood paired with Kamigata’s fine sake.
The thumbnail and the top image of this page was from this site